How To Clean A Beretta Px4 Handgun

Px4-Cleaning-Instructions

These detailed instructions are for a Beretta Px4, but if you have a 92/96 series, you can take advantage of this article too. There are a couple of different details, like how the takedown lever works, but everything else is pretty much the same.

The gun I’m using for this demonstration is a .40 S&W Beretta Px4 with a Crimson Trace Rail Master Pro. That’s a combination light and laser unit that works with virtually any gun with a rail – like this Px4. The good thing is that it’s completely out of the way for cleaning and maintenance, as you see here.

First you have to take it apart, or field strip your PX4. There is no need to completely disassemble your pistol unless something is obviously wrong with its function. And even then, full disassembly and inspection is best left to a qualified gunsmith.

When you’ve field stripped your Px4, you will be left with six major assemblies:

  1. Magazine
  2. Frame
  3. Slide
  4. Barrel
  5. Recoil spring
  6. Central block

Beretta_Px4_Cleaning-6

All necessary cleaning and lubrication can be done with this level of takedown.

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Even before step 1 of the field stripping process, you need to make sure that your pistol is empty. Remove the magazine. Most importantly, rack the slide multiple times to remove the cartridge in the chamber. Now visually check the chamber. Now do it again. Lock the slide open by pressing upward on the slide lock lever while retracting the slide. When you look through the top, can you see daylight through the magazine well? Can you see that there is no cartridge in the chamber? Good. Now you’re ready to proceed.

How to field strip your Px4

Step 1: Remove the slide.

Your Px4 should be decocked with the hammer in the “down” position. Using one hand, pull down the disassembly latch on both sides of the frame. Now move the entire slide assembly forward and it will come completely off the gun frame. Yes, it’s that easy.

Beretta_Px4_Cleaning-2

Step 2: Remove the central block and recoil spring.

The nice thing about a Px4 is that the recoil spring is captive, meaning it won’t go flying off across the room when you remove it. Turn the slide upside down and pull the central block and spring out. These two parts will separate easily as the spring is inserted into a hole in the block.

Beretta_Px4_Cleaning-4

Step 3: Remove the barrel from the slide.

Another easy step. With the central block and spring removed, the barrel will lift out of the slide.

All done! With the Px4, you want to be careful with the slide lock / slide release lever. With the slide removed, it’s fairly easy to knock off the frame, and the spring that holds it is a little bit tricky to reinstall. Just be careful and you’ll be fine.

How to clean your Beretta Px4

First you’re going to need some basic supplies. The Px4 includes a cleaning rod with a slotted end for patches and a brush, so technically all you need is cleaning solvent and lubricant.

otis-kit-only

My favorite cleaning rig: OTIS Technology

There are dozens of gun oils and cleaning solvents on the market. Fortunately, it’s pretty hard to go too wrong with any gun-specific cleaners and oils. Notice we say gun-specific. What you don’t want to do is use a general purpose penetrating oil like WD-40. We love WD-40 and it’s wonderful for many things, like getting bubble gum out of your hair. You may even use it to clean gun parts. Just don’t rely on it as a preservative and protectant for post-cleaning use. Guns tend to get really hot, hence the need for special oil and lubricant formulations that are designed to stand up to intense heat. Since the Px4 has a polymer frame, be sure not to use solvents than can damage plastic. Generally, only degreasing products will have this issue.

We’re going to pause and put in a plug for what I believe to be the best cleaning system on the market. It’s called the OTIS Technology System.

It’s well worth the money and the kits are designed to accommodate rifles, shotguns and pistols of various calibers. Their most basic kits will handle 9mm, 40 S&W and .45 ACP – all you need to clean the Beretta Px4.

Read the rest at Beretta USA!

Be sure to check out Tom’s latest books! They are ON SALE now for a limited time!

Transforming A Basic AR-15 To A Home Defense Rifle

The "after" version of the Smith & Wesson M&P 15 OR. It's all geared up for the Crimson Trace Midnight 3 Gun Invitational and home defense use.

The “after” version of the Smith & Wesson M&P 15 OR. It’s all geared up for the Crimson Trace Midnight 3 Gun Invitational and home defense use.

A few weeks ago, I discussed my plan of using the upcoming Crimson Trace Midnight 3 Gun Invitational to choose, equip and practice with guns I’ll use for home defense. Since then. I’ve decided to use a Smith & Wesson M&P 15 OR for the rifle. It’s a standard AR-15 design with a notable exception. Instead of the classic A2 fixed front sight and gas block, it comes equipped with a rail gas block. And as a home defense choice? Absolutely. M&P 15’s run – reliably – and are cost effective to boot.

The before photo.

The before photo. When doing gun work, you’ll want a proper set of gunsmithing screwdrivers like this

Gearing it up for both the night 3-gun competition and home defense use requires some tweaks. Here’s what I decided to do.

Rail for lights and lasers

Installation of the quad rail was easy - I didn't need any tools.

Installation of the quad rail was easy – I didn’t need any tools.

The Smith & Wesson M&P 15 OR comes with the standard round plastic handguard. It’s comfortable and does a good job keeping your support hand cool when the barrel gets hot, but doesn’t have attachment points for rail accessories. I chose to replace it with a Blackhawk! AR-15 Carbine Length 2 Piece Quad Rail Forend. It offers rails on top, bottom, left and right and has great ventilation in between to let the barrel cool. You can also get it in rifle length if your gun is longer than mine but enough about that.

Installation is a snap. You don’t need tools, not even a hammer. Just remove the existing handguard by pulling down the delta ring in front of the receiver until you can pry the existing handguard halves out. The new Blackhawk! handguard also comes in two pieces, so put them in the same way. After they are pressed in place, you bolt the two halves together. It’s not a free-floated solution, but it’s rock solid and you don’t have to do any serious construction work to install it on your rifle.

A little detail that makes a big difference

I also chose to install a Blackhawk! Offset Safety Selector. This is one of those “oh duh why didn’t I think of that” inventions. It relocates the safety lever itself 45 degrees so you can easily reach it with your thumb without shifting your grip. A great aid for safety and usability, and for competition, it might just help you avoid a procedural penalty for not engaging the safety on your rifle.

Read the rest at OutdoorHub!

Be sure to check out Tom’s latest books! They are ON SALE now for a limited time!

Silencing the 300 AAC Blackout

You have to admit, a silencer makes any rifle cooler - like this SilencerCo Specwar 762 on a Daniel Defense DDM4v5 300 Blackout.

You have to admit, a silencer makes any rifle cooler – like this SilencerCo Specwar 762 on a Daniel Defense DDM4v5 300 Blackout.

Last time we got into an ammunition geek-fest and talked about the variety of commercial ammo available for the 300 AAC Blackout and the endless tinkering you can do as a reloader for that caliber.

Perhaps even more fun than creating endless varieties of ammunition for the 300 AAC Blackout is shooting it with silencers. With subsonic cartridges, usually those firing 208 grain or heavier projectiles at velocities of 1,000 fps or so, you’ll have some serious quiet. Even when using supersonic 300 AAC Blackout ammunition, you’ll notice a dramatically improved shooting experience. Supersonic rounds will still make that little sonic boom, or crack from the bullet traveling through the air, but the gun shot will sound more like a “whoosh” than a “bang.” Hard to describe in words, it’s a little bit like air brakes on a truck. Know what I mean? Trust me, it’s cool.

Before we get started, let me clear up some terminology. Silencer is the correct legal term, and the one coined by Hiram Percy Maxim back in 1902 when he invented the Maxim Silencer. For a long time, the industry used the term “suppressor,” as it was more descriptive. A silencer doesn’t completely silence after all. Recently, industry folks are moving back to the term “silencer” but you’ll see both terms used interchangeably, and both are technically correct – just in different ways.

Let’s talk about some things to consider when silencing the 300 AAC Blackout and close with a look at a few good silencer options currently on the market.

Your gun will experience “the change.”

Even 300 Blackout ammo is cool like these Gemtech 187 grain subsonic rounds.

Even 300 Blackout ammo is cool like these Gemtech 187 grain subsonic rounds.

More likely than not, your rifle will have a point of impact shift when you add a silencer. In plain english, this simply means that the bullet will hit in a different spot when the silencer is on as compared to when it’s off. Just to be clear, assuming you have a half decent gun, your groups will be consistent with and without a silencer, they’ll just be in different places on the paper. Usually, this is not a huge deal – an inch or two difference.

For example, after shooting a bunch of groups with my Daniel Defense DDM4v5 300 AAC Blackout rifle, I added a SilencerCo / SWR Specwar 762. Measuring the distance between before and after groups, I noticed that my rifle impacted about 1 inch lower and ¾ inches to the right at 50 yards when using the silencer. Your results will almost certainly vary as the “change” results from different barrel harmonics. Every silencer is different and every rifle and barrel combination is different. In any case, this is nothing to get concerned about. You’re not likely to see any dramatic shifts, just be aware that you’ll need to re-zero your optic.

I actually noticed a slight improvement in accuracy when I added the suppressor. While not dramatic, groups using identical ammo in identical conditions shrunk just a bit. Again, your results may vary. Have a little fun testing before and after point of impact and accuracy effects to see how your rifle responds.

Read the rest at GunsAmerica!

 

Be sure to check out our latest book, The Rookie’s Guide to Guns and Shooting, Handgun Edition 2nd Edition 2014. It’s ON SALE now for a limited time!

The Rookie's Guide to Guns and Shooting, Handgun Edition

The Rookie’s Guide to Guns and Shooting, Handgun Edition

Surplus Ammunition: Shooting a Little Bit of History, Literally

Surplus ammo is not just inexpensive, but interesting and fun - if you give it the proper respect.

Surplus ammo is not just inexpensive, but interesting and fun – if you give it the proper respect.

Remember when surplus 8mm Mauser ammo was more abundant than White House press conference fibs? I do. Not so very long ago, you could buy as much as you could store for less than 5 cents a round. Now that same round is about 60 cents – if you can find it. Similar scenarios apply for other common military rounds like .308, .30-06, 7.62×39 and 7.62x54R. While harder to find, and a lot more expensive than it used to be, it can still be cheaper than newly manufactured ammo.

While the glory days of surplus ammo have gone the way of real investigative journalism, there are still some deals to be had. For example, one of the current “bargains” (and I use that word begrudgingly) is 5.45×39 for AK74s. That can still be found in quantity for about $.22 per round. Considering new 5.56mm ammo runs into the $.40 to $.50 range, that’s not too bad, assuming you have one of those micro-bullet AKs or a different 5.45mm bullet eater.

But as they say, there is no such thing as a free lunch. The “cost” of that dirt cheap ammo is that some of it has corrosive primers or other issues that require extra care when feeding.

There are benefits and drawbacks to using surplus ammunition. Rather than address pros and cons, let’s just make some observations.

Corrosive ammo

The real issue here is corrosive primers that use material which leaves a potassium chloride residue in the barrel and gas system – if you use a semi-automatic. You might recognize this dangerous (to guns anyway) chemical as… salt.

The problem with salt is that it likes water and attracts it from humid air. It likes water so much that even if you slather your bore with gun oil after shooting corrosive ammo, the salt will pull moisture through the oil to the bore and rust it underneath the oil layer. Did I mention that it really likes water?

The other problem with salt is that it does not really break down into anything less damaging to guns. It dilutes in water, but it’s still salt. So you can’t just “neutralize” salt residue left by corrosive ammo primers. Oil won’t neutralize it. Gun cleaner won’t neutralize it. Justin Bieber’s Greatest Hits won’t even neutralize it. You have to remove it. On the plus side, the fact that salt dilutes in water makes it easier to remove.

Read the rest at AmmoLand!

Be sure to check out our latest book, The Rookie’s Guide to Guns and Shooting, Handgun Edition 2nd Edition 2014. It’s ON SALE now for a limited time!

The Rookie's Guide to Guns and Shooting, Handgun Edition

The Rookie’s Guide to Guns and Shooting, Handgun Edition

Customizing Your Beretta Handgun

I used to be a gun purist. I never made any changes to a factory gun. If I did tweak it, swap out parts or add things, then it wouldn’t be original any more, now would it? And that would be… wrong? For some reason, having a perfect, factory-configured gun was important to me. Perhaps for the same reason I’m reluctant to pull that tag off of new mattresses.

A lightly personalized Beretta 3032 Tomcat (left) and a Beretta 92FS customization in progress (right.) Note the stainless steel guide rod and Hogue wrap-around grips.

A lightly personalized Beretta 3032 Tomcat (left) and a Beretta 92FS customization in progress (right.) Note the stainless steel guide rod and Hogue wrap-around grips.

Fortunately, I got over the compulsion to leave my guns as is.

To be honest, part of the reason for my attitude change was that I, umm, dropped my Beretta 3032 Tomcat .32ACP. Hard. So hard, it broke the grips. Oops. As I started to order a factory replacement set, I got a sudden urge to do a little Googling just to see what other options were out there. Just in case.

To make a long story short, I found a beautiful set of wooden grips. I took the plunge and decided it was time to consider going custom.

After all, we’re talking about my handguns. Why not make them my own?

When it comes to customizing, you can make cosmetic changes, performance changes, or both! Your customizations can be internal, external or both!

Just for fun, I’ll share some of the things I’ve done on my Beretta 92FS – and some of my future customization plans.

Read the rest at Beretta USA!

Let’s Talk Silencers!

Why not put a big honkin' silencer on a Glock 26?

Why not put a big honkin’ silencer on a Glock 26?

Silencers remain a mystery in more ways than one.

Are they legal? Can you buy one? Can anyone else use it? Do they really silence a gunshot? Has Hollywood completely misrepresented yet another gun safety topic?

In this article, I want to focus on the fun part – using and shooting silencers, but first let’s take a quick look at how to legally get one. After all, you can’t shoot what you don’t have.

Buying a Silencer

As of this writing, 39 states have some legal provision for private silencer ownership. Yeah, I know, it’s none of the government’s business. And that leads me to the next point. Check out the American Suppressor Association. They’re a consortium of companies and individuals who are trying to fix ridiculous things like onerous regulation of mufflers for guns.

Since silencers fall under jurisdiction of the 1934 National Firearms act, there are two ways you can own one, both of which are regulated by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.

First, you can fill out a Form 4, Application for Tax Paid Transfer and Registration of Firearm. This method is a bit of a pain as you have to submit fingerprints and get a signature of a local law enforcement official. Some designated LE folks will sign your application, and some won’t. The dealer who sells you a silencer will help you navigate the process.

Second, you can set up a trust. That’s a legal entity that “purchases and owns” the silencer. The benefit is (for now away) that you don’t need fingerprints or a local law enforcement signature. Also, four individuals can be members of the trust and all will have legal access to use the silencers owned by the trust. The drawback is it will cost you some extra cash, but I think it’s worth it. I set up one with GunTrust.com, and it was a piece of cake.

With either method, you have to buy the silencer, pay for it, and then submit paperwork to the BATFE for approval along with a check for $200. Then you wait. And wait. And wait. The approval system is hopelessly backlogged, and the current peanut gallery in Washington doesn’t seem to be in any big hurry to fix the process. That’s one of the things the American Suppressor Association as well as the NSSF are working to change.

Note that I’ve been using the words silencer and suppressor interchangeably. The correct term for the invention is silencer, based on the name “Maxim Silencer” invented by Hiram Percy Maxim back in 1902. The industry called these devices suppressors for a long time but have recently shifted back to the term silencers.

Read the rest at AmmoLand!

Grab a copy of my free eBook, A Fistful of Shooting Tips. It will help make you a better shooter and the envy of your range in no time.

To Restore, Or Not To Restore. That Is The Question

An old and beat up Walther PPK/S (left) restored into a functional (and beautiful) carry gun. Should the well-worn Colt 1903 (right) be given the same treatment?

An old and beat up Walther PPK/S (left) restored into a functional (and beautiful) carry gun. Should the well-worn Colt 1903 (right) be given the same treatment?

I’m a purist. Sometimes.

I tend to think you should generally leave historical specimen guns alone. For example, I’ve got a Japanese Type 99 Arisaka that’s in great condition. It’s missing that jangly monopod, but probably because the soldier who cared for it tossed it in the Okinawa surf in a fit of frustration. I don’t plan on doing a thing to it other than regular cleaning. I shoot it, of course, because that’s what it’s made for. But you won’t find me sanding and refinishing the stocks or thinking about re-coating the metal. And I have no intentions of mounting an Aimpoint Micro on it, even if I had the 3x magnifier to go with it.

The Walther's trigger is radiused, top strap "anti-glared" and the wood grips are even glass bedded to perfectly fit the frame.

The Walther’s top strap is “anti-glared” and the wood grips are glass bedded to perfectly fit the frame.

Sometimes, the decision over whether to “restore” or “refinish” an old gun is easy.

Some years back, before I knew better, I bought a Walther PPK/S from a gun auction site. The ad description was a little light and the photo seemed to show a stainless steel model that needed grip panels and a few miscellaneous parts. And the price was right. A home gunsmith special! No worries, I could take care of that! After all, I owned a Dremel tool, plenty of duct tape and at least two and a half cans of WD-40. So I bought it. The gun arrived, and it turned out to be a blued Interarms import that appeared to have traveled at Warp Factor 12 through an asteroid belt. Pits, dents, explosion craters – the works.

This gun had apparently survived three wars and and two episodes of Real Housewives of East Liverpool, Ohio.

I acquired some new grips and assorted missing parts and took it to the range for a test shoot. Reliability was excellent. It could shoot almost two rounds without jamming. Not bad, but I felt there was room for improvement. And that’s when the Dremel tool came out. I figured that I could polish up the feed ramp and turn that pistol from a Frankenstein into a Franken-Fine!

The radiused trigger makes this an excellent shooter.

The radiused trigger makes this an excellent shooter.

That plan worked out so well that I waited almost twenty four hours before calling the gurus at Cylinder and Slide for help. Among many other things, they specialize in making Walthers sing classic opera tunes.

As you might surmise, this was one of those situations where you deliver a bag of parts to a professional along with a lame explanation. “Boy, the idiot I bought this from sure messed this thing up. Look at the Dremel tool marks on the feed ramp!” Fortunately the gunsmiths at Cylinder and Slide are also trained psychologists and they know when to nod their head and agree.

To make a long story short, I had them do more restoration on that Walther than Joan Rivers face. And it turned out to be stunning. With this gun, there was no intention to “restore” it to original condition. The work was done with the sole purpose of transforming it into a masterpiece carry gun. The trigger is now radiused, meaning beautifully rounded. The top strap is etched to reduce glare. The rounded portions of the top of the slide are matte-finshed, again to reduce glare. The feed ramp is shaped and polished so this gun will eat any combination of .380 ACP ammunition stuffed into its gullet. The wood grips are not just installed, but glass bedded. And of course, the whole gun is polished smooth and re-blued. It’s gorgeous and shoots like a dream. We won’t talk about the total cost of this little project.

The decision to renovate the Walther was an easy one. Interarms imported PPK/S pistols are not particularly rare or historic. This particular gun was an absolute mess and practically un-shootable. And it was butt ugly.

But all restoration decisions are not that easy. Right now, I’m having a dickens of a time deciding whether to do anything with a Colt 1903 Pocket Hammerless.

Read the rest at OutdoorHub!

New Book! The Rookie’s Guide to the Springfield Amory XD-S

Hot off the press! The Rookie's Guide to the Springfield Armory XD-S

Hot off the press! The Rookie’s Guide to the Springfield Armory XD-S

If you own a Springfield Armory XD-S, or are thinking about buying one, then this book is for you!

In insanely practical fashion, we cover everything you need to know about the Springfield Amory XD-S pocket pistol family. Whether 9mm, .45 CP or the new 4.0 model – we show you how to safely use, maintain and accessorize your Springfield Armory XD-S.

Using light-hearted and plain English style, we provide easy to understand tips and advice. This book includes:

• A guided tour of the Springfield Armory XD-S
• How to shoot your XD-S
• Step by step cleaning and lubrication instructions
• Holster options
• Lasers, lights and sights
• Ammunition for your XD-S 9mm or .45 ACP
• Practical tips and tricks
• And more!

Be sure to check out our latest book, The Rookie’s Guide to the Springfield Armory XD-S. It’s available in print and Kindle format at Amazon:

The Rookie's Guide to the Springfield Armory XD-S

The Rookie’s Guide to the Springfield Armory XD-S

How To Keep Your AR Rail Cool and Comfortable

One of the last things we’re adding to the DPMS A3 Lite we’ve been customizing with Blackhawk! long rifle accessories are low-profile rail ladders.

Blackhawk! Low-Profile Rail Ladders installed and cut to size.

Blackhawk! Low-Profile Rail Ladders installed and cut to size.

These polymer inserts attach to rail segments by snapping into place on both sides via the groove in between. They hardly add any thickness as the polymer only sits a millimeter or so above the rail itself, but they make all the difference. These rail inserts are designed to do several things:

  • Protect your rails from dings, scratches and dents
  • Provide a non-slip grip to the rail area
  • Protect your hands from sharp edges of the rails

I just left an event at Blackhawk! where professional shooter and instructor Todd Jarrett ran us through a condensed black rifle class. It was a great opportunity to try the rail ladders out. During the session, we did enough shooting for the barrel, gas block and aluminum rail to get hot – and that’s where I really noticed the value of the rail ladders. Even though they’re low-profile, they made a noticeable difference in terms of insulating my hands from heat. Providing additional comfort and grip security was a given – you could feel the difference right away. I was just not expecting them to make a difference with heat control.

This is a nice, and very simple, add-on to most any rifle with a railed front end. The ladders come in 18 slot segments and you can easily cut them to the exact length you want with a pocket knife. I put them on all four sides. If I ever decide to add other rail accessories, I can just pop off that segment and trim to fit the unused rail area.

It’s a nifty little upgrade and you can get them for about ten bucks.

How To Install Flash Hiders Or Muzzle Brakes on the M1A or M14

One of the ongoing tinkering projects around here has been customization of a Springfield Armory M1A Standard, which we reviewed a while back. One of the first things done to this rifle was installation of a tritium sight post for low-light capability with the iron sights. We chose the Smith Enterprise Tritium Close Combat Sight (TCCS) and mounted that front sight assembly on the standard front sight dovetail.

So far so good!

I need (OK, want) to mount the Smith Enterprise Vortex and Good Iron Muzzle Brake on a standard M1A, but there are a few steps to complete first...

I need (OK, want) to mount the Smith Enterprise Vortex and Good Iron Muzzle Brake on a standard M1A, but there are a few steps to complete first…

But now it’s time to get crazy with flash suppressors and muzzle brakes. Yeah, I know, those are contradictory things, but as this is a tinkering project, we’re going to try both at different times and report on the results. We’re going to compare the Smith Enterprise M1A / M14 Direct Connect Vortex and the Smith Enterprise Good Iron Muzzle Brake. Not to each other, but to a factory standard configuration. Stay tuned for separate articles on how well they control flash and compensate for recoil compared to the default setup.

But, like many of those Saturday honey-do projects, this one also has somewhat of a domino effect. If you remove the standard flash hider from an M1A or M14, you lose the front sight dovetail. As I really like having iron sights on this rifle, it’s time to figure out how to keep a front iron sight while being able to swap out the standard flash hider with other options.

Enter the Smith Enterprise Gas Lock Front Sight.

Smith Enterprise offers a couple different options that allow installation of a front sight on top of the gas lock instead on top of the standard bird cage flash hider. For flexibility, we’re going to install the Smith Enterprise GLFS-D-22, which is designed for standard 22″ barrels. It’s really more of a front sight platform as it features standard male dovetail. This allows you to reinstall the factory front sight on top of the gas lock or use an upgraded version like the Smith Enterprise TCCS or match sight models.

Let’s get busy:

Before we can do anything with aftermarket flash hiders and muzzle brakes, we need to relocate the front sight back to the gas lock. This assumes you want to keep iron sights. If you don’t, you can just remove the default flash hider and not worry about the gas lock.

An easily overlooked step is removal of the retaining screw which prevent the castle nut from moving!

An easily overlooked step is removal of the retaining screw which prevents the castle nut from moving!

You’re going to want to remove the barreled action from the stock to make things a bit easier. It also helps to put the barrel in a padded vise, as the castle nut can be tight. You’ll need a pair of castle nut pliers which you can get at Brownells for about $15.

Use the castle nut pliers to loosen the nut. Looking from the breech end, the nut will turn clockwise.

Use the castle nut pliers to loosen the nut. Looking from the breech end, the nut will turn clockwise.

Once the bond is broken loose with the castle nut pliers, loosed the nut a little bit. Then slide the flash hider forward. Then loosen the nut some more. Then slide forward. And so on. Eventually it will come off.

Once the bond is broken loose with the castle nut pliers, loosen the nut a little bit. Then slide the flash hider forward. Then loosen the nut some more. Then slide forward. And so on. Eventually it will come off.

Voila!

Voila!

Since I’m going to keep my front sights, I need to move the base to the gas lock. Loosen the gas plug and remove it. This should be fairly easy. Remember, this is a dry area, so don’t slop gun oil all over it!

When you remove the gas plug, you can clean it off, but keep it oil-free.

When you remove the gas plug, you can clean it off, but keep it oil-free.

Now it’s time to remove the gas lock. This should also be fairly easy. Just unscrew it until it slides off the barrel.

Just unscrew the existing gas lock and remove.

Just unscrew the existing gas lock and remove.

Now just screw the Smith Enterprise Gas Lock Front Sight dovetail into place.

Now just screw the Smith Enterprise Gas Lock Front Sight dovetail into place.

When the new GLFS is lined up correctly, reinstall the gas plug.

When the new GLFS is lined up correctly, reinstall the gas plug.

Now, just mount your front sight on the new GLFS dovetail.

Now, just mount your front sight on the new GLFS dovetail.

Since you’ve moved the front sight post to a new base, you’ll need to head to the range and re-zero your rifle. Bummer, time to go shooting!

Job completed!

Job completed!

After relocating the front sight to the Smith Enterprise Gas Lock Front Sight dovetail, I reinstalled the standard flash hider, but only because I want to try to get some nifty before and after muzzle blast photos when we go to the next step – installing the Smith Enterprise Vortex Flash Hider.

Legal Disclosures about articles on My Gun Culture